Mammals Respiration Rate Reptiles

Flea Market / Christmas Market yield

Today we were at the Christmas market and bought two beautiful things:) On a stand

gabs a lot of stuff out of sheet metal. The beetles we found kind of funny. Price was ok, that is purchased.



so while we strolled the market, I saw a sign with a reference to a house flea market. Good thing we went there. Now we have a new coffee service.

Aries Aries Compatability Same Birthday

Witten - Zeche Nachtigall 10/25/2010

I've made up my mind yet again on a regular basis what to write. Here, first, some pictures from Witten Nightingale Colliery on 10/25/2010. I found very interesting and if it'll fit next year's down again.







Somehow, the blog will not upload more pictures: (

What Is A Mens Columbian Wax

project DRIVEN IGER

encountered in the course tireless research for my models, I by chance on this project, which at that time it has done not on the drawing board stage of a draft out. Nevertheless, exactly, these studies are excellent opportunities to try out famous models.

Nowadays it will probably take us to model farmers, the traces of former designers and engineers where their actions ended - at the local crafts table. Such a (according to WJ Spielberger) unrealized project is also mentioned here, a model of a Rams Hilfiger dar. on the experience of the local and urban warfare in Stalingrad was to bring such a vehicle building with entrenched soldiers simply collapse. As a basis for this should be a Tiger by Porsche are used. Through the rear horizontal engine, a generator was driven, in turn, supplied power for the two to the driving wheels mounted electric motors.

to me from reliable sources but not quite yet have been at least three vehicles for test purposes, provided with a driving cap. Ultimately it is true, is probably lost in the fog of war. Nevertheless, the model represents a worthy challenge for modellers, especially since with appropriate paint a true Hingucker sein dürfte. Da ich bei meiner Suche nach Vorbildfotos (dies bezieht sich nicht auf Original-, sondern andere Modellbaufotos), nicht zweifelsfrei klären konnte, ob die mutmaßlich für diesen Zweck herangezogenen Fahrzeuge bereits mit einer Zimmeritschicht belegt waren oder nicht, entschloss ich mich kurzerhand für den Bausatz des Porsche Tiger von Arsenal M . Dieser ist bereits mit Zimmerit versehen, was letztendlich aber auch egal sein kann. Sobald das stählerne Gefährt unter der Haube ist, ist eh kaum noch etwas von diesem zu erkennen.

Der Zusammenbau ist, wie auch bereits beim Jagdtiger von Arsenal M easily described, and fast, because many components have already been cast with the hull.
Since the tower and the main weapon of the Porsche Tiger in this particular case can not be used to disappear all these parts safely in the domestic spares box. The opening in which the turntable of the tower has found its place was a model closed by a washer from a hardware store. In the center of the bore of said disc, was also taken from the grab bag, glued the hatch cover of a tiger. After the glue has dried, mounted with which the washer, I have a small tool of the big "C" Cautiously a little filler around the edge of the Disk-draped and pressed with a toothpick a slight wave structure in the fast-curing compound. Voilà! Finish was a tentative opening welded together on the tower hatch cover.

Otherwise, the construction of the lower hull continue as before rebalancing. Only on the front armor plate, between the bow machine gun and driver's perspective Luke I placed another large Tarnscheinwerfer from local spares box. I put it right before me weird, would have given this vehicle and actually it would be really in the twilight or even in the dark by any clogged by debris and junk Streets rolled up, while the Bugöffnung the driving cap seems a narrow beam of light that illuminates the surrounding weak ...

Even if the fact that one later, once the driving cap is put on, no more would see, I have yet the details, that is, tools, tow ropes and the like, painted, and later, as the rest of the vehicle, using techniques (drybrushing, pastels and pigments, etc.) accentuated. Painted, the hull and drive rollers in the way German Grey (Color Model), accented by neutral gray (MC), and a little iron 91 (Revell) to the corresponding Corners and edges. Even if he as he was conceived, has never been used, so I thought it would be not yet, take up the bathtub for a little dust and dirt (especially where later will be the opening of the driving cap - provide to the Bug-MG/Fahrersichtluke). Finally, such Rammfahrten were not so entirely without effect on the vehicle itself ...

We come now to the most prominent of the model - the driving cap. This consists in this case entirely of the joined, prism-shaped plastic parts with a thickness of 1.0 mm thickness. Since I the time of construction but not enough polystyrene in the desired thickness had in stock and would have an order with Rai-Ro me in this moment (a Saturday) but clearly took too long, had to be a fast alternative. Said and done. I still remembered it, I had one of my railway guns of its time built from plastic sheets, which I bought at the hardware store - in the Department of warning and information signs. At that time I had smeared some glue (Uhu) to the finger and was taken with the blob going to check the said signs on solubility. As I had hoped, dissolved the glue in the plastic, it's something meant for me, he was also with this same verkleben konnte. Kurz und knapp kaufte ich mir zwei grün weiße Notausgangs-Schilder und machte mich zu Hause daran, die Rammhaube zu gestalten.


Zunächst hatte ich mir eine Zeichnung ausgedruckt (ist bei mir zu bekommen), den dortigen Maßstab ermittelt und diverse Längen, Breiten und Winkel abgenommen und ggf. auch umgerechnet. So gewappnet fertigte ich aus stabiler Pappe (Rückseite eines Zeichenblocks) die benötigten Einzelteile an. Mit Hilfe dieser Schablonen übertrug ich die Formen der einzelnen Teile auf die Rückseite der Notausgangs-Schilder, schnitt diese aus und fügte sie im Anschluß daran und nach erneuter Überprüfung der Passgenauigkeit zusammen. I made myself from the same cardboard small triangles, which corresponded to the angles, was set in which the hood together, stuck them using wood glue to the inside of the parts and then added, added after curing of the glue on the joints of the plastic parts liquid model glue. So fixed and stabilized, all parts of cure alone.

The parts for the roof of the flanks, as the tail were fast and, above all to very simple. The discipline is king here, probably the production of the bugs on the driving cap. This is not that, like the tail plan, on the roof-edges design, but is itself in still bent outward. Although I can orient myself using a three-view, but this mask I presented a real challenge. After more than three hours and throw away like senseless cardboard and Papiergeschnibbel, customize, and the same number of blanks, but then I had been able to achieve the vermalledeite part and glue it to the rest of the hood. Thereafter it was only once in the bed to the next day with fresh vigor and developed accordingly to go back to work ...

Another highlight in relation to the makeup of the driving cap, was the introduction of the viewing aperture. I decided, however, that take only come after all splices were filled and sanded. Using numerous illustrations I created a template, transmitted by means of these the outlines of the cut on the mask and then began to cut the frame. With sandpaper, nail file and a scalpel this rough cut was brought into its final shape and smoothed all the edges. To later, however, give an impression of which consisted this hood really thick steel (especially at the point of view excerpt) under fed me that window to the edges additionally with trimmed plastic residues, which were attached with liquid model glue.

As the bow of the hood, I came across during my research on two different versions. First, to which has no separate junctions between side and top, but those that have been manufactured in one piece with the edge parts. Then there were those who just has left and right side at the junction of the top two small triangles, which are then welded as reinforcement. I chose the latter option to choose my battering ram. Not only because it was easier and faster to whittle from thin plastic material two equal triangles and glue. I figured that since Rams Hilfiger was being considered at the end of the war and in the course of development and production so it had to go quite fast, this would certainly be at that time, the faster and more expensive version was. So, in short - thought running and stuck two triangles.

For further detail, especially in the rear area of the driving cap, roughly where the hatch and the like, there are commitments that are probably the reason the sky is the limit. Again, it returns pictures from the net that have a normal ladder and the double-leaf door to to combat domes, storage boxes, fire extinguishers, etc. all show what is possible. I tried, true to the moth less is more approach and left it at a two-wing door hinges and handles together, plus access aids in the form of slightly twisted ladder rungs. For the latter, and the handles on the valves, I used copper or brass wire in a correspondingly low (0.4 - 0.5 mm) in diameter.

At the front, above the view port, I also still stuck on a trapeze-shaped piece of plastic residue. Almost as a reinforcement for the Rammkopf. On other images, this is partly also represented as a two-part door on others it simply as a welded steel plate. What was actually in the end, I leave it to be seen sometimes as a.

The painting of the driving cap may well be called the artistic freedom-loving. First, I flirted so, this simply in rust-red protective coating present and provided only with a few obligatory "chalk mark." But since I already had a Jagdpanther in 1 / 16 in just want such a dress here, I rejected this idea again just as quickly. After comparison with some model photos mainly those in 1 / 35, I decided to finally own a relatively simple coat of paint. After the driving cap a night previously been primed and the paint was completely dry was followed, via airbrush next a layer of Gunze H404 Khaki Brown.

After this was followed by the camouflage pattern, which quite simply from a wave pattern in olive green clay was H405 (also from Gunze). Emphasizing simple, yet visually to hit very well. Next, it was to affix the decals. Even with this, I used those of TL, although here too the imagination was almost unlimited. After the sealing of the attached images using decals Vallejo Matt Varnish was taken the weathering and aging in attack.

First, a Gently lighten the brown khaki followed at the corners and folds. For this purpose, Beige 314 was used by Revell Aqua Color. Since the "battering ram" However, contrary to the alleged fact that he was never matured for use, should give a still very used and worn-out idea that I took after drying again scalpel, files and other sharp tools at hand and missed the hood - literally - the finishing touch. Here and there were grooves in the Edges scratched. There torn with a file any blemish in the mask and caused almost all the frontal edge in this way small and large wounds. When I finished the result was, was out of my "rust box" Dark Flesh Citadel fetched. Finally came that way of course, the base coat - rust - reappeared. With a relatively short hair brush I gently pulled a couple of lanes over the hood, of course, had explicitly in the places that I previously beaten with a knife and file. But be careful also to a few places untouched by these tools, a little rust-red paint was brushed dry.

was over this procedure, of course, had come also added a bit of metallic shine. After all, in the places that I had mistreated with the file, not just ground off the camouflage, but also deep furrows been torn up in the metal. So gently lightened with a little iron 91st After just a few brush strokes, a first, they felt like could have looked like a driving cap after a few uses.

Last but not least, a few with black (Black Badab; Citadel) and brown (Devlan Mud; Citadel) ink on to action, to continue a little to provide for weathering. Likewise, the hood was a somewhat stronger treatment with Vallejo pigments (a mixture of 73 104 and 73 111 Sienna Light Green Earth, as well as some 73 105 Natural Sienna as a final dust here and there ...). I had initially made me even more concerned about the hold of the hood on the Porsche-Tiger, these fears have already scattered at the first pass samples. The hood is only slightly narrower at its opening, when the tiger is wide and fits sucking on the upper hull. pushed up to around mid of fuel and diffuser, they covered awarded the vehicle and provides a truly grim impression that you throw a look through the opening in the front mask.

As a final summary, I can only say that we really can help with an emergency exit "sign from the hardware store around the corner and a correspondingly good kit which conjure nice. The time invested, especially in the construction of the driving cap (alone 15-20 hours from start to finish), I believe, been wasted in any case. Especially great joy has given me the damage wrought by the hood and I can only recommend it to anyone who wants to call another extraordinary model of his own, to try it on the basis of this example again. It's worth it. Tips and tricks relating to the construction of the hood, etc. are welcome via email are requested from me.

Norman Bushman 11-2010

Solve For R In Annuities Equation

Thick chunks were quite small - Hunting Tiger 1 / 87 Arsenal M

After several Sherman tanks in the recent past and an adjoining detailed report on the assembling a model of CMM , I now once ventured to a really big chunks - a kit of Jagdtiger in scale 1 / 87 of Arsenal M . The kit is it currently Panzerfux for not even 16 euros.

For some time arsenal M has such a model on offer. I chose the version with Zimmeritbelag . Already at the opening of the small cardboard box, a drop in the carefully arranged assembly components, which are all cast in dark green resin. The cast is excellent and leaves nothing to be desired. Only a few small items that you would probably have wished for as separate components are cast in one piece with the tub together. Below in cases For example, the steel cables, cleaning equipment and tools. But can this is already the only minus point, that they attributed to this kit. A very good successful gimmick is also separately attached to the hood kit. This can, depending on what the model builder, placed on open or closed model. Who decides if they are presented as open, for which the engine can be seen through the opening, you can top air filter unit of the Maybach. Considering that it came with this model from the Tiger family increased to technical failures, can be combined with the hood open, certainly make a nice little diorama.

Nach dem Auspacken sind, wenn überhaupt, nur absolut minimale Säuberungsarbeiten vorzunehmen. Im Grunde kann die Wanne so in eine Schüssel mit etwas Pril eingelegt und von eventuellem Fett und Trennmittel befreit werden, ehe man mit irgendwelchen weiteren Arbeiten beginnt. Wie ich bereits eingangs erwähnte, kann die Motorklappe geöffnet werden. Ich wollte dies tun und habe mich dementsprechend für ein Modell entschieden, das vielleicht kurz nach einem Gefecht beim technischen Dienst nach der Benutzung ist. Dementsprechend habe ich meine Grabbelkiste durchforstet und ein kleines Kontingent an Figuren für diesen Zweck put together. But we are first of all to the model itself

As the assembly is simplified and accelerated held as many details have already been cast on the model. But nonetheless there is still enough room to make this small jewel of an appropriate model. Primed was completely in the neutral gray of Model Color - via Airbrush from triplex ! With such a thing really well to get into the smallest corners and the spray is much finer than the good from the old box (which I do not yet completely aufgeben werde). Zur einfachen, späteren Montage der Laufwerksteile habe ich die entsprechenden Stellen am Modell mit einem Stück Kreppklebeband abgeklebt. Im Anschluss an eine Trocknungszeit wurden die Laufrollen, sowie die Wanne mit Khakibraun von Gunze Sangyo gebrusht. Wie ich bereits in einem anderen Artikel erwähnte, benötigen die Gunze-Farben einen Moment länger zum Trocknen, als beispielsweise die Aqua Color von Revell oder Citadel. Mittels abgeschraubter Düsenkappe war es mir somit sogar möglich, die Trieb- und Leit, sowie die Laufrollen mittels Airbrush zu lackieren. Mit einem entsprechend geübten Finger (den ich mir noch an trainieren muß), lässt sich die Farbe wahrlich punktgenau auf die Stellen , Apply where you want them.

Well, then it went the next day with the application of the first camouflage pattern. Again, I attacked again back on the tank paint set from Gunze Sangyo, this time on the color of chocolate brown. Once again, a few drops of that color came into the flow of the airbrush cup again and was again working without a nozzle cap. The results were in, in my humble opinion, would definitely see. At the edge of each color were still significant "points" from the spray seen, but this would after the "Washing" hardly be seen. In addition, I also wanted to be a hunting tiger, which, while already in the field, but was not in the car wash. Ergo, he would later need to end all painting work, make a dirty impression.

After both the chocolate brown, like the olive green were applied did, I set out to paint the drive and other parts, separate components. The individual roles were merely a decoration with chocolate brown. Then the chain was removed inside and outside matt black. Later I wore this coat diluted Bestial Brown von Citadel auf. Da die Ketten, sowohl innen wie außen, strukturiert sind, wollte ich diesen Umstand nutzen, und ein wenig die Details hervor heben. Auf der Innenseite trug ich das Bestial Brown auf, in dem ich mit einem Haarpinsel von den Laufrollen zur Kettenkante zog. Die Außenseite wurde so behandelt, das möglichst der Großteil der Farbe in den Vertiefungen zwischen den Auflageflächen der Kettenglieder haften blieb. Für die weiteren Schritte war eine ordentliche Durchtrocknung dieser Farbe unerlässlich. So dauerte es eine Nacht, ehe ich mit dem Detaillieren weiter machen konnte, das dann aber wie folgt aussah:
Zunächst nahm ich Eisen 91 von Revell A.C. und begann diesen Farbton mittels Trockenbürsten auf der Außenseite apply the chain. Here, I made sure that clung possible, only a touch of color to the areas between the webs of the chain, and the large flat on the supporting struts itself Following this, I started the guide teeth on the chain of interior walls with a touch of Mithril Silver (Citadel) to pollinate. All was well dried several washes and inks were used to obtain the chain still aged appearance. I used this Badab Black, Ogryn Flesh, Devlan Mud, Brown Ink and Flesh Wash to all tastes.

I decided why not to use the covers of the chains. Or we say, not as it had provided M Arsenal. Instead, I deleted the Jagdtieger around the bottom and to below the Zimmeritbelages with Dark Flesh Citadel and dry brush this paint later with Bestial Brown and some iron 91st Finally, I took a 10/0-er brush at hand, and brought a few chalk marks and guide lines in white on the parts where the guards had to find their place. Somehow I love this shell-Touch of models like these. After all, had to move to the time of raw materials are saved, so my hunting tiger had not just received an overall base coat in khaki brown, yellow sand, respectively.
One of the two track skirts, which also are provided with Zimmeritstruktur was from me to the places marked concise sawed into pieces and Zimmeritbelag with a fine needle file then sanded down. After a primer in Neutral Gray (Color Model), all parts were also painted in Dark Flesh and then after drying with Bestial Brown brushed dry. Then a few corners and edges were fitted with iron 91 and fitted with white paint and the brush 10/0-er a few chalk marks and numbering. Thus, the items would later removed the cover to find their place on the model.
Thus prepared, was started after another day with the installation of the drive parts be. I used this a standard, thin liquid glue. This that the adhesive surface failure on the part of the chain part quite generous, after the coating with adhesive later guaranteed a more than adequate adhesion to the model body.

we do with other Detailllierungen further. On hunting tigers themselves were the steel cables and pipe cleaning rods, and anything attached to the tool body with a steady hand and fine pointed brush. Every step necessary for this work to explain individually is beyond the scope of this report. For the color scheme verwendete ich wiederum Model Color und Revell Aqua Color.
Eine kleine aber feine Spezialbehandlung erfuhren die frei sichtbaren Abgasrohre, die in der Mitte des Fahrzeughecks hervor schauen. Die unteren Ramm- und Hitzeschutzbleche wurden ebenfalls in Khakibraun von Gunze bemalt. Doch bevor diese am Modell verklebt werden konnten, mussten ja die eigentlichen Auspuffrohre angebracht werden – natürlich erst nachdem ich diese bemalt hatte. In Sachen Rost & Co. Habe ich mir inzwischen eine entsprechend auf meinen Geschmack abgestimmtes Sortiment an Farben, Pigmenten und Ink´s zusammen gestellt. Natürlich setze ich nicht an jedem Modell all diese Hilfmittel gleichermaßen ein. Aber es sei an dieser Stelle einmal darauf hingewiesen, was sich is in my treasure box colors for this purpose:

Manufacturer Color Ink ; Wash pigments

Citadel               Bestial Brown
                           Dark Flesh
                                                               Brown Ink
                                                               Flesh Wash

                                                                                          Badab Black
                                                                                          Devlan Mud
                                                                                          Ogryn Flesh



Revell A.C.       Braun 85
                          Rost 83

Gunze               Rost H453

Marabu            Decormatt Braun 045

Vallejo                                                                                                        Burnt Umber

                                                                                                                     73110
                                                                                                                    Burnt Sienna

                                                                                                                     73106

Model Color    Chocolat Brown 70872

Ich persönlich beginne mit einer Verrostung so, das ich zu erst einen dunklen Farbton auf das entsprechende Bauteil auftrage; such as marabou 045 or Model Color 70872nd Then, layer by layer brightened, and I every now and again or even slightly dim or brighten. One can not say that I by Chocolat Brown on top, to grate 83 or H453. In like manner, as a self-like best.
However, to also represent at this small scale, a little of a substance peeling of the attacked metal can, I use pigments from Vallejo in the specified colors. This then also I dab with a brush on to the appropriate area, which showed that the color of the background to this end should still be moist quiet wneig. To achieve shades, finally worked with a little ink or wash. If you want, for this purpose, the pigments in the medium stir and apply both. But I can see, only the full extent of this essentially simple work is well worth its own article ...

goods completed this work could be applied after the decals of TL. Even here, only three cross beams were used. The one on the right and left of the building, and, viewed from the rear, right rear. I sealed it after drying with a touch of Vallejo Matt Varnish.

As mentioned above, it is left to the developer of this model, whether he wants to represent the engine cover as open or closed. I decided me to represent them in the open position. This is why I painted the interior in Dark Flesh and the outside in khaki brown. Then, the inside, as with the skirts, dry brushed by Bestial Brown and Iron 91st A holding rod handle bent brass wire (diameter 0.4 mm), served as a lock and was mounted from the outside.

I added myself a long time before different sets of companies Preiser and Artmaster had was now come for me, the moment on this very tiny to fall back. The finished tank model should be embedded, one of the variety, not requiring too much effort in creating a small diorama. Said and done, a corresponding frame in the desired size was at hand and it could also go off already.
The base was a piece of cardboard cut handle them accordingly. This was painted with Model Color German Grey by from and subsequently lightened it with a neutral gray of the same manufacturer. After drying, I scratched with a scalpel, small gaps and grooves in the box to represent the structure of juxtaposed concrete slabs. Of course, these brittle with continued overrun by tanks and other heavy equipment to the edge become. Just as the more or less at right angles to each other joints, a few of the cracks were sealed by tar. At some points it does have a sparse vegetation managed to bury their straws by the sealant. The tar was black and a 0-brush, he applied shaky. Vallejo pigments were responsible for an irregular and dusty, dirty impression.
This base was off my game and tigers of the characters are under siege and surrounded. I used to crew members (on the upper side of the battle area and into the driver's hatch) of the kit accompanying figures. The uniforms of the two was Panzergrau 78 (Revell) and plotted mit German Grey, bzw. Neutral Grau trockengebürstet. Die Hautpartien wurden mit Hautfarbe 029 von Marabu bemalt und später mittels Devlan Mud schattiert. Augen etc. ergaben sich so fast von selbst, wurden aber dennoch hier und da durch ein wenig verdünnte schwarze Farbe betont.
Der Panzersoldat am Boden, der zu demjenigen auf der Oberseite gestikulieren spricht, stammt von Preiser. Es ist durchaus erlaubt, an dieser Stelle ein wenig Frankenstein zu spielen und sich gleich mehrere Bausätze zu bedienen. Ich selber habe die Bausätze 1 6500 (Panzersoldaten 1935-45) und 16515 (Panzerbesatzung 1939-45) hierzu verwendet und alle benötigten Teile so zusammen gefügt, wie ich sie gerade benötigte. In this way, then the two mechanics were on and at the rear of the JT. The small tool box is also included multiple times in one of the Bausätrze. The oil drum I have taken the Tanklagerset of Artmaster . A few greasy rag around the open hood round out the picture.
Finally, I have draped a few of the items mentioned above in the apron on parts of the base. Öl-/Wasserlachen removal of sand by Vallejos Black Shade.

This set really has everything you would expect for this price-performance ratio. I think, even a little more. Just the accompanying Figures (five) and separate heads for this (even five, with two of the existing figures had already heads!) To download for free a shape.

Norman Bushman 11-2010

Long Term Effects Of Anorexia Metabolism

The Making of a Sherman - Step-by-Step

I noticed all the reports on the present Panzerfux.de but always beautiful pictures of the finished model, but I do not yet, let's call it just one step by Step-report, had written, which shows not only the word is, what steps have been taken to end the kit to make what can be seen in the pictures. The man in the true and the man in the specific sense happens to be an eye animal, which means that he would like to leave everything minutely as possible to arrange the optical paths. Moreover, it is very important to me to show one that you can also create entirely without airbrush a model that, nevertheless, think as I do not need to hide behind those who have experienced a painting by "air brush". Well, we begin, then, using another of Sherman CMM go with it.

1) All parts needed to build the model used in a small plastic bag, therefore, characterized with a simple Papierschildchen. To the Sherman also properly later "to represent aufgerödelt" can set up additional M4-Detailset # 2 for the number of CMM- Sherman . The difference between Set 1 and Set # 2 consists solely of the set contains a 3-pointed # 1 "hedge trimmer" and Set # 2, a 5-pointed. The whereabouts of this "hedge trimmer" I will later in the report will discuss below. Otherwise, both sets of plenty of small items with which each model can be relaxed and invigorated. Boxes, backpacks, tents and the like are made from the same resin and without any complaints.

In ausgepacktem Zustand (siehe Foto oben) ist dann ersichtlich, warum der Bausatz nicht mehr Platz als eben jenen kleinen Plastikbeutel benötigt. Die Anzahl der Teile ist auf ein Minimum beschränkt und viele Details wie beispielsweise Werkzeuge und Scheinwerfer bereits am Modell angegossen. Dies ist ein Vorteil beim Zusammenbau, der sich jedoch manches Mal als Nachteil während des Transportes vom Hersteller zum Händler, und weiter zu dessen Kunden erweisen kann. Zwar geht der Bau relativ schnell von der Hand, doch sind zumeist feine Details, wie in diesem Fall z.B. die an der Front der Oberwanne angegossenen Zurrösen, abgebrochen. Doch diese neu herzustellen, sollte einem Modellbauer no difficulties.

2) As mentioned elsewhere, the forms appear for the resin model, both in Heiser, as well as here at CMM, a little to get on in years. Excess resin swells here and there out in the liquid state and then leaves its mark. It is also to see where the runners are, and also the bottom of the tub a little filling and sanding work ahead of us before all the preparations are completed for the priming.

An Werkzeuge benötigen wir hierfür lediglich ein scharfes Bastelmesser (oder Skalpell), ein paar Feilen, sowie einen Pinsel, um den Schleifstaub ggf. abzubürsten. Um die Unterseite der Panzerwanne nach dem Entfernen des Angussblocks möglichst plan zu bekommen, sollte dieses Bauteil auf einer eben Unterlage über ein Stück Sandpapier geführt werden. Vorsicht ist hier jedoch insofern geboten, da der Runde Bug und die dort befindlichen Flansche der dreiteiligen Getriebeabdeckung leicht in Mitleidenschaft gezogen werden können.

Den Gussblock entfernte ich, indem ich mehrfach mit der Messerklinge kurz über die Längsseite fuhr. Später ließ sich das Ding dann ohne Gegenwehr abbrechen. Um, wie in unserem Fall, speziell die Frontpartie zwischen den Flanschen der Getriebeabdeckung gut von überschüssigem Resin säubern zu können, habe ich mir vor kurzem ein s.g. Nadelfeilen-Set zugelegt. Dies ist für nicht einmal 6 € bei Conrad Electronic zu bekommen (Art.-Nr.: 82 10 07-68) . Da es sich um sehr kurze und auch schlanke Feilen handelt, sind diese Werkzeuge geradezu dafür prädestiniert, an derartigen Stellen eingesetzt zu werden. Mit ein paar Hieben über die Flanken der ohnehin am Original gegossenen Oberwanne, beseitigen wir noch ein paar winzige Unebenheiten. Gleichzeitig schaffen wir so auch eine angeraute Fläche – auch wie beim Original.

Und immer gut auf die Finger achten!

Gleichzeitig habe ich noch die Reste der abgebrochenen Zurrösen links und rechts von Fahrer- und Funkererker entfernt. Diese werden dann im Anschluß an die Schleifarbeiten durch solche aus Kupferdraht (0,50 mm Klingeldraht) ersetzt. Dieser Ersatz ist aber auch bei intakten Ösen zu empfehlen. Und zwar dann, wenn man ggf. ein paar Teile der Ausrüstung (z.B. Kisten, Fässer, Planen, Tarnnetze, etc.) zusätzlich noch mit imitiertem Seil am Modell befestigen möchte. Nichts ist doch ärgerlicher, than if you break away later in the home stretch those parts and you must then replace after the paint work and aging.

3) For the eyes I do not need much. to bend a little bell wire (0.50 mm), a good wire cutter from the electronics sector and a correspondingly small pliers to the wire in the desired shape. A hand drill with a sharp drill bit in a correspondingly small diameter to the holes for the eyes in the front of the Upper hull drill. Of electrically-powered mini drills I recommend this model, however. Although it should be those with speed control. Resin and other plastics tend, even at low speeds to melting, which results in such a way that they stick to the drill and turn out the holes thus always larger than originally desired.
With the pliers we bend a piece of wire cut into the desired shape and at him. After a test of whether the length of the loop fits in the holes, this can be fixed with a drop of liquid superglue into it. And these eyes can only bend, at most, but not be canceled.

Before the drive can be freed of their excess "Resinrahmen" should the two hatch covers also carefully removed from this and put aside. The fish skin around the T-48-chain can be touched with a scalpel and then aborted. The parts inside the Laufwerkles I remove, by moving the entire component on coarse sand paper gently back and forth. In this way, can be compensated even slight bumps and you saved yourself a possible softening of the resin in hot water. The latter is also a good, if not entirely safe method of deformation to reverse. These are found from time to time on the component of the cannon. Another method is to create the corresponding component for 15 to 20 seconds at 600 to 700 watts in the microwave to soften it. But even here one should exercise extreme caution.

If deburred all the parts and after grinding with a mild detergent solution (lukewarm Water and a little creek, etc.) fingers of dust and grease (free), it can go to the priming. The parts to fix this enough so that they do not fly through the air pressure from an airbrush or spray can of it, I use a little wood glue. A few drops of it on the undersides of the parts and then glued to a cardboard box, after a few minutes you can already start with the Grundierarbeiten.

has finished this step and the primer dried, the components have any problems back from their support ablösen. Holzleim beinhaltet keinerlei Lösungsmittel, die für Kunststoffe gefährlich sein könnten. Folglich bildet sich nur ein relativ fester, wenn auch elastischer Film, der sich mit dem bloßen Finger wieder ablösen lässt, ohne Spuren zu hinterlassen.
Zwischen den einzelnen Bauteilen sollte ausreichend Platz beim fixieren auf der Sprühunterlage belassen werden, damit der Sprühnebel gut hindurch treiben kann und nach Möglichkeit keine fremden Details, sprich von anderen Teilen als denen, die gerade grundiert werden, bedeckt und unkenntlich werden lässt, weil versehentlich zu viel Farbe aufgetragen wurde. Auch sollte in mehreren Gängen und kreuz und quer gesprüht werden, damit all points are reached and that no "spray shadows" - places where no color is gone.

However, this can not always be avoided altogether. So was I too rely on this model after priming a little brush work to spray shadows any ", for example in the chain covers and on the front of the nose, left and right provided the flange before the actual painting even with a little primer . I use this, either by Citadel Codex Grey or Neutral Grey Model of Color.

Subsequently, all parts after Drying once put together temporarily in order to identify already times in advance whether they were also later when the painting is completed, can assemble without difficulty. As you can see in the picture, see the "small" Sherman from already passable. Thus prepared, we can make the first steps of painting.

4) After I have tried in recent times a lot of colors, I have come to the conclusion that a mix of several manufacturers are the best Choice is to design a model. So I used such as Model Color Vallejo colors as well as the usual Revell Aqua Color-paints, or just one or the other color / Ink Citadel (Games Workshop). For aging, washing and the so-called micro paintings will then pastels yet (in stationery stores), (to get the Panzerfux) pigments (MIG and Vallejo), and different color sets of Gunze Sangyo / Hobby Color used.

I will start with a little pre-chat animals of corners and recesses on the surface of the Sherman. I use this U.S. Olive Drab Model of Color, which I have heavily diluted with water and then I applied with a brush of size 0 to the model. This paint is designed to give the actual paint on the so-prepared positions more depth. Although this looks a little rough Vorschattierung and clumsy, but the impression is deceptive and is quite deliberate. diluted if the primer in green everywhere rests, and that with a little thinner or water, was the Olive Drab shimmers slightly in these areas through, which simultaneously has a weathered gradient result. If that Olive Drab was plotted perhaps too much of this can touch up a few minutes after the application again. For this purpose, he just needs a brush in a little dive and airbrush cleaner to remove the excess shadow a bit.

Is Olive Drab dried, can be even with the primer in U.S. Dark Green, also continued to make from Model Color. For this I've turned over a plastic cup and a bit of paint on it trickled, then diluted with a little Thinner was. This allows the otherwise relatively viscous model excellent color process with the brush.

Compared with the colors of Citadel and Revell Model Colors need to be a bit longer to unravel. Therefore, it is useful if the models to dry properly overnight to before proceeding to any further steps.

5) all components are in green painted and dried, can be actually already begun the initial steps of emphasis. But before even the decals should be affixed to the model. After all, the Washington, Aging and the Micro Paint extend beyond them. After all, it will have been no tanks, no matter what nationality he belonged, were excluded from the insignia and lettering of any dirt and abrasions.

For the model of Sherman, as well as for everyone else, I use only wet decals by TL-Decals . TL offers a wide range of wet decals and each sheet contains decals for an almost infinite number of models. This is of course only be understood in a figurative sense. However, I would call a small example. In the last six months I have nearly a dozen models Sherman gebaut und mit Decals von TL versehen. Hierzu verwendete ich die Bögen TLD-1420 (USA Sterne) und TLD-1425 (US Army 1945) . Ohne übertreiben zu wollen kann ich behaupten. Mindestens noch einmal doppelt so viele Modelle mit den beiden Decal-Bögen verzieren zu können. Der etwas höhere Anschaffungspreis macht die Ergiebigkeit der Schiebebilder also mehr als wett. Der Vorteil der TL-Decals liegt, wie ich finde, auch darin, das gegenüber anderen Bildern der transparente Rand pro Bildchen auf ein absolutes Minimum beschränkt ist. Bei entsprechender Vorbereitung mittels Klarlack und Co. Fällt dieser (auch bei mehrreihigen Schriftzügen) später nicht mehr auf. 

To the stars and code numbers to be attached to my M4, I dip the relevant sections of the arches in warm water with a drop of dishwashing liquid. Thereafter, the Schiebebildchen can help with a toothpick from the paper onto the model. Is it well-positioned, the excess water using a cotton swab is carefully removed and flattened.

Finally, the sticker still sealed with a bit dull varnish . I use the products of this micro scale, and Vallejo. Both paints are water based, quick drying and form a durable, matte film. Thus prepared, meets the clear coat the same two things. First, it protects the decals before they are worn when handling the model. On the other hand may also be some harder strokes when drybrushing or with a bristle brush and pigments cause any real damage to the image.

6) During the clearcoat dries on the hull, we can have in the meantime, once dem Laufwerk des Sherman widmen. Bei diesem handelt es sich um eines der T-48-Serie. Während das Standardlaufwerk, bildlich gesprochen, relativ glatt auf der Unterseite der einzelnen Kettenglieder ist, verfügt das T-48 über trapezförmige »Klauen«, was insbesondere bei weichem Unterboden für ein besseres Vorankommen sorgte. 

Wie ich bereits in meinem eigenen Blog anhand eines Tiger-I-Beispieles beschrieben hatte, bemale ich die Ketten zunächst einmal in mattem Schwarz; sowohl von der Innen- wie auch von der Außenseite. Hierzu habe ich mir ein größeres Glas an schwarzer Acrylic paint risen in the craft store. Is this paint dried, can be started with the first dry brush. To the protruding parts, those that came with the original with the substrate in contact to achieve a worn and polished impression, I use three different metal tones, which are applied in thin layers

Let me start with Gunmetal Grey, Model of Color. This very dark and very shiny metallic luster, however, should be applied very sparingly. The "glittering" metallic pigments could in order to generate strong almost resembles a metallic paint. That's why I decided to use the connection a little iron 91 by Revell Aqua Color.

Finally, it is a little brighter with Mithril Silver Citadel. This silver color is relatively light and is therefore suitable for heavily worn metal parts very well.

Finally, should also recognize quite a few have weathered . Bare metal, especially when it is exposed to adverse environmental conditions such as rain and snow is now not even tends to retain its metallic sheen. Rust, dust, dirt and more or less strong play their part to help the drive to let all others appear to be shiny. In order to give that impression even before the actual Weathering a base, I use a touch of Devlan Mud from the series of Citadel Washes. This very thin liquid paint dries matte and transparent and can shine through the silvery gray of the previously applied metal tones. I get treated a lot affected drive. And that was the aim of this exercise.

7) Before I get to the next step - the first pass over accentuation of the model, we can begin to assemble. For this purpose, the components of the drives in place are adhered to the tank sump. I also use this a thin liquid glue. Similarly, a first attachment of the detail set # 2 of CMM is glued to the model: the so called "Hedge-Cutter" - hedge trimmer. Now in my case are a dozen different Shermanvarianten, but none of the models that have temporary tool. This flaw was therefore removed from the world.

Wie ich anfänglich bereits erwähnte, sind die Details-Sets dahingehend unterschiedlich, das eben jener »Cutter« in dem einen als dreizackige, und in dem anderen Set als fünfzackige Variante enthalten sind. Welche nun hübscher ist, liegt wohl im Auge des Betrachters. Ich habe mich für die fünfzackige Ausführung entschieden und diese bereits vor der Montage mit US Dark Green von Model Color bemalt und nach dem Trocknen mit ein wenig Sekundenkleber am Bug des Panzers befestigt.

To set a course, especially with Sherman tanks, which were mostly not really a camouflage, just a solid dark green paint I use first Badab Black (Ink) by Citadel to now that the primer set, once cracks, crevices and the like to emphasize. Later, I go and turn with a brush with a little stiffer bristles present, and "brush" a little dusty gray 77 (Revell Aqua Color) and following some ocher 87 (Revell AC) on the protruding parts of the upper hull. Likewise I do with the roller, guide and driving wheels of the landing gear, the hatches and the commander's cupola, and with the mentioned "hedge trimmer" Here it is again at each for themselves how much of one or another color he applies.

After application of Dust Grey 77 (Revell AC)

And after the order of earth color 87 (Revell AC)

Finally, I put a little metallic reflection on a few, markedly protruding parts of the model. Here, for example, the input and Austiegsluken the tower, the lashing rings at bow and stern, and the numerous corners and edges and closures were mentioned.

8) We come now to the little fine details that the model can be visually enhance many times. The numerous tools that have been molded with the fuselage in one piece, require even a very steady hand at painting. But this step is once accomplished, rewards the sight that offers the model thereafter, always worth the trouble.

For the wooden utensils, the handle of the shovel, the Hammers and dismantled pick, I have painted with green-brown color of hobby and a brush of size 10 / 0. The metal parts such as blade ax head and received a coat of Gunmetal Grey, who later became a little brighter with iron 91 by Revell. Clamps and other fastening objects (for the tools during the journey to their to hold space), I have so far not evident, was painted with a little U.S. Dark Green on the wooden handles. For example, on the hammer. All tools not to appear too new, I have deleted the terminal a little Devlan Mud Ink, particularly on the wooden parts. Similarly, a few shadows in the form of Badab Black in the immediate angle and columns have been placed around the tools. were

Finally, with a little Gloss black or the angle mirror on the commander's cupola, and all other painted on the tower and the bay windows of the driver and radio operator. Too, I used the brush of size 10 / 0 Thus prepared to approach the Bemalarbeiten already almost over, and we can set out to make the detail parts of the detail set # 2.

9) includes beside the mentioned hedge trimmers Set # 2 of the CMM a lot of other details that any Sherman (and not only those of CMM), to upgrade many times. There is for example a piece of spare chain, several boxes of various sizes, backpacks, Zeltplanen und und und ... 

Auch hier liegt es wieder an jedem selbst, welche Teile er verwendet und in welchem Umfang er sein jeweiliges Modell mit diesen zu verzieren gedenkt. Vieles ist möglich und kaum etwas ist unzulässig, ganz gleich ob nun ein oder zwei Feldtaschen am Turm drapiert werden, oder das gepanzerte Gefährt wie ein Packesel vollgestopft wird. Ich persönlich entschied mich für einen bunten mix aus ein paar Rucksäcken und Taschen, einer Zeltplane, zwei Spritkanistern und diversen Kisten.

for easier handling all parts were previously separated from the Resinträger and trimmed of abrasive paper to size. In the Schleiffseite itself was designated a small hole drilled in what was the tip of a toothpick with a little wood glue Express wood glue into place. Thus prepared, all parts are primed and then painted separately. Was painted with both colors of Revell, as well as a hobby and Color Model Color, which I first chose a darker color as the basis for the specific purpose and after drying it dry with a slightly lighter shade brushed. In the end it was again a little with Badab Black and Devlan Mud "filtered."

10th) Before now, however, to pass over, the thus treated backpacks, etc. to bring the model, I have the old "war horse" a little right to a battered appearance helped. As I myself was noticed later are clearly visible on the first pictures a couple of notches and grooves on the sides of the upper hull. Well, this little flaw I wanted to include according to what brought me to the resolution, to simulate a fire damage. With a small hand drill and Burr Attachment in a little wood glue Express (the glue binds more rapidly than the normal glue und ist bereits nach wenigen Minuten noch sehr gut »modellierbar«) wurde ein leichter Krater angedeutet und in Mitleidenschaft gezogenes Metall verbeult dargestellt. Nach dem auch dieser »Schaden« getrocknet war, konnte mit etwas Gunmetal Grey und Mithril Silver optisch die Sache zum Abschluß gebracht werden. Etwas Devlan Mud sorgte für einen schon etwas ältere Schadensansicht am Modell. 

Zusätzlich und ob der Tatsache, das diese Details möglicherweise nach dem Anbringen der Ausrüstungsgegenstände nicht mehr eindeutig sichtbar sind (selbiges gilt incidentally for the white star there, but one wants to read yet exercise as much originality as possible), were at the top covers the rear-end engine room for a few oil stains and simulated laughter. Originally I had planned to use this Badab Black. Since I wanted to have bright spots, however, and especially for tank models probably never have enough oil can be "filled", I asked myself a few weeks ago to a 200-ml stock of Black Wash Shade of Vallejo. In principle, nothing more than the known Badab Black, just in greater quantity and with a shiny surface after drying.

11.) Nach dem ich die kleinen Kisten, Taschen usw. ein paar Male auf dem Modell drapiert habe, um deren endgültige Lage und Position zu ermitteln, werden eben jene Teile mit einem Tropfen Holzleim auf das Modell geklebt. Ich verwende für alle Teile stets Holzleim, da so zwar auf etwaigen Transporten Kleinteile abbrechen können, die Stellen, an denen diese saßen aber nicht in Mitleidenschaft gezogen werden. Fast ohne Spuren zu hinterlassen, fallen sie ab, lassen sich aber ebenso einfach auch wieder erneut ankleben. 

addition to the aforementioned parts of the set I have a machine gun, mounted in stock, including holders of a cast part of an MDR model. In addition to a knotted rope to the back, left lashing eyes, and two camouflage nets were quickly thrown together at the turret rear and on the left side of the front into place - next to a spare roll (also from a Sennheiser model). Sun trimmed and aufgerödelt can the "can see little" but already.

12th) But what would a military model, if we do not like such activities send through thick mud and muddy moths - at least in a figurative sense. Just as the model is now fitted out, I then made me out to herd the small "Kampfsau" a little by the wallow. For this I did myself a mix of Vallejo pigments (Burnt Sienna, Light Sienna & Natural Sienna) with a bit of Thinner (also from Vallejo) and water. In addition, a few drops dripped from Graveyard Earth Citadel in and with a little Water further diluted, was created by a really nice "mud." Since I contamination by a "mud" but too little, I bought myself in a model shop or a pack of mini art tussock nature. This grass, I also stirred in the mud. This meant that the silt start of the model.

To complete the overall picture was still a couple of thick grass tufts said on some prominent points of the model draped. For example, on both rear chain runs between each roller carriage and above the chain runs. Similarly, in thickets and on hedge-cutter has caught. Thus, the model is a used but truly a very impression.

And that would be once again a fine little model completely. Of course there are still one or the other detail that you notice afterwards and you will want to improve or do differently the next building. But more then the next time around.

I hope so, I can give an impression about how you can make yourself with a brush and airbrush without an adequate model to his feet, respectively, whose chains. For praise, criticism and constructive criticism, I am always open and reach via email about the Panzerfux.


With friendly brush-wielding sincerely
Norman Bushman