the idea, but sometimes make a small diorama with the tanks in which I am daily at the potter, my wife recently planted one a few months ago. Previously I've always hesitated to access this area of modeling, as it has indeed almost unlimited scope to develop such a diorama, but this stuff very quickly filled with all sorts of rigmarole, and aiming for the diorama is thus completely disfigured. I put that thought so once again on hold. Until I went to this year's Model Exhibition at Pentecost to Munster in the German Tank Museum ...
The idea to provide a tank model to one not only with possible signs of battle, but once such a show as a real wreck, irritated MCIH always. Unfortunately, I had no idea yet which model would be for my concerns in this matter. As I strolled through the halls of the museum, the camera always click-ready at hand, I came to a stand, had issued an exhibitor on the number of Sherman tanks on a scale 1 / 35. Among other things, a little scene was sags in which a totally rusted to Sherman on the chains in the sand of a beach - and not only for a few days, but the color design for, for decades. The Sherman was covered all over with rust. The second model in this diorama was a converted Sherman, a sg TRV - Tank Recovery Vehicle, which with mounted This crane was the sags and completely unusable Sherman salvage, well, at least in part. When I saw this diorama, I realized something I will have - but just in my preferred scale 1 / 87.
Since I had already been working recently on a number of Sherman tanks, was a model for the representation of the wreck found quickly .- I opted for an M4A1 Sherman tank with a cast of Heiser's Models, Inc . U.S.. In the search for the appropriate TRV I had not look far. Custom Military Model Bill Jr. offered this kit in two different variants, and only the differences in the tubs lie. The silhouettes of both Shermans are basically identical. The only difference is the show the cast tubs hardly corners and edges, while the trays are made of welded flat armor plates. I chose the TRV also for the model with the cast (rounded) pan.
The Sennheiser model comes in olive green polystyrene so that the CMM is made entirely of yellow resin. While the latter are limited in every part of the cast from resin to a minimum (trough and upper trough, tower and various tools and equipment are cast in one piece, chains and crane boom are as individual components included) to hang the Sennheiser model all parts in two clear cast frame. Here, too, shows up again, the Heiser also much emphasis on the creativity of the modeler and skill sets, for all models of this American manufacturer is very much "small stuff" in the form of Rüstteilen. Although it should be noted that parts be found at early, mid and late versions of the individual tanks were, they remain even have enough left over parts in order to miss each model a unique character.
Regarding the future of my rusty Heiser new model, however, would I be able to do without all these things. Moreover, I had already considered in the run, only the upper hull and the tower and Cannon, hatches and so on. Nevertheless, would weapons, tools and the like do very well on the TRV. Although many tools, spare parts, boxes, etc. were mentioned above already exist in the model, but should also include the area around the scene set in the two models do not seem bleak and empty. In due time I would already know which subject I had to drape where. But before I ever dealt with the terrain, I would initially start the construction and painting of both models and finalize - let's start then!
The Sennheiser model comes in olive green polystyrene so that the CMM is made entirely of yellow resin. While the latter are limited in every part of the cast from resin to a minimum (trough and upper trough, tower and various tools and equipment are cast in one piece, chains and crane boom are as individual components included) to hang the Sennheiser model all parts in two clear cast frame. Here, too, shows up again, the Heiser also much emphasis on the creativity of the modeler and skill sets, for all models of this American manufacturer is very much "small stuff" in the form of Rüstteilen. Although it should be noted that parts be found at early, mid and late versions of the individual tanks were, they remain even have enough left over parts in order to miss each model a unique character.
Regarding the future of my rusty Heiser new model, however, would I be able to do without all these things. Moreover, I had already considered in the run, only the upper hull and the tower and Cannon, hatches and so on. Nevertheless, would weapons, tools and the like do very well on the TRV. Although many tools, spare parts, boxes, etc. were mentioned above already exist in the model, but should also include the area around the scene set in the two models do not seem bleak and empty. In due time I would already know which subject I had to drape where. But before I ever dealt with the terrain, I would initially start the construction and painting of both models and finalize - let's start then!
First, I dedicated myself to say the upper hull of the M4A1. Since then not much more than this would be appreciated, could safely turn out of the gates sanding down a little more economical. Also, I ventured here and there a little later, the apparent decline nachzuhelfen in which I had the headlights off. It was also the place of the bow MG merely drilled a slightly larger hole in which the ball aperture and said the weapon of his time had taken its place. Since it would have been quite cumbersome, opened the hatches of the driver and radio operator display (both are closed in the model), I left it at that, to install open only the commander and the loader. To illustrate the latter, as such, but for this they had a small cut to the appropriate Position of the tower to be set. With a pencil, a fine drill, a sharp, thin blade and subsequent round file, this was done quickly. The cannon of the main gun was stuck as usual in the tower.
Before Sherman had now been put in but the lamentable state in which he should be on the diorama, he also had a corresponding damage suffered. A ragged hole in the right upper curvature was introduced from the inside by means of a folded-nose pliers. Although the peak, but still provided at its end flat beak of the forceps according to the irregular jagged extremes. Since the edge of the forceps is not round, but also more edgy is, I made these not great, because the damage should be properly frayed by the very fact of the corrosion caused by decades.
As the tanks, respectively, its crew, saw the coming danger but they face was tilted tower in the appropriate direction. Sorry a little late, so that the projectile caught the enemy tank in the interior of our Sherman and caused a devastating destruction. The explosion of propellants and ammunition, the tower was even a bit lifted from its base, which now made him sit on a slight angle of the tub. I achieved this effect, in which I removed the cones located in the tower and for a piece of poly pipe of the same diameter inclined rear glued to the tower roof. Thus prepared, the tower was later, after painting, are attached to the tub shell. What followed was the attempt to make complete wreck eaten away by rust and age object. The only question was how I made it.
Okay, many of my models have slight corrosion. How I built this, I was sure. I proved them together a small repertoire of tools and colors I here would like to point out the purpose of illustrating in detail:
Dark Brown 045 (Marabu Decormatt)
Rost 83 (Revell Aqua Color)
Brown 85 (Revell AQ)
Dark Flesh (Citadel Color)
Bestial Brown (Citadel Color)
Flesh Wash (Citadel) *
Brown Ink (Citadel) *
Badab Black (Citadel) *
The comparison of different fine brush (con 0 / 5 to 3), cotton swabs and paper napkins used the color not only to apply and distribute them, but also to achieve a correspondingly irregular surface structure.
For those with an "*" marked items is called Ink, very low viscosity inks (known in English as ink = ink), which is always dry transparent. Even if they are plotting thick, shining through the basic order of color, especially with what this project is very beneficial was. It must be said, however, that up to the other two Badab Black Ink's dry slightly glossy. There are now but the so-called Citadel Citadel washes, a series of Ink's (Badab Black was born in this series), the flash off dull and not shining in the end.
The painting of the tank and the tower began just as cih preparing all models after they are cleaned, with a layer of primer. Once this had dried properly, I overlaid the two parts with a dark layer of dark brown 045 from marabou to provide a solid base for the layered structure of rust. It was me but rather, it shines in the end may A dark brown spot on some corners and edges of the grid as a gray. With fine brush strokes, so I carried on like this chocolate bar, which I smoothed with a little more water in the brush here and there a little. Again, this order had to dry thoroughly before work could begin working on the actual rust.
used to apply the other colors I am a cheap bristle brush, I gently dipped in rust Revell's 83, just a little dash on a napkin and then dabbed on the tub. Always nice here and here and there also something else. I sent this order to dry a little and then began aufzutupfen the same way Dark Flesh and Brown 85th As well, this was accomplished, again came Bestial Brown zum Einsatz. Zwischendurch wurde noch ein wenig nach eigenem Geschmack mit Braun 85 aufgelockert, bis die komplette Fläche der Oberwanne und des Turmes, einschließlich der Winkelspiegel der Kommandantenkuppel, mit einer lockeren Textur der ausgewählten Brauntöne bedeckt war. Diese Farben ließ ich dann eine Nacht durchtrocknen, alleine schon um für das weitere Vorgehen ausgeruhte und frische Augen zu haben ...
Unter Zuhilfenahme der Ink´s akzentuierte ich zunächst die Rillen und Vertiefungen am Heck. Hierzu wurde erst ein wenig Brown Ink hinein laufen gelassen und im Anschluß das Badab Black drüber gezogen. So verstärkt sich mit wenigen Pinselstrichen der plastische Eindruck von Tiefe. Das Badab Black hingegen verhilft dabei, das das Brwon Ink nicht glänzt.
Letztendlich liegt es im Auge des Bastlers und an dessen Geschmack, wie er weiter verfährt. Ich habe mit einem gestutzten Haarpinsel der Größe 3 und dem Citadel Large Drybrush hier und dort ein wenig Ink aufgetupft und mit einem Wattestäbchen (oder auch dem bloßen Finger) diese verwischt. Lockere Striche und Tupfen, die anschließend ein wenig verwischt wurden brachten nach einigen Minuten bereits das gewünschte Resultat und ließen so den Eindruck entstehen, das ein paar Flächen stärker vom Rost befallen sind, als andere. Schlußendlich habe ich an ein paar markanten Stellen noch etwas Eisen 91 und Mithril Silver (Citadel) trockengebürstet. Wind und Sand sollten im Course of time so a few posts have bare ground naturally.
The M32 TRV of CMM was released from his bag and trimmed with a scalpel and file. As mentioned already some models from Sennheiser, appear in the maize forms gradually in the years to come. Although most runners are at the bottom of the tub, where they disturb not even later on to complete assembly and painting. But it seems a few gaps, possibly where the form of upper and lower sections are superimposed, predestined to be let through liquid resin. A few fish skins, it quickly removed and sanded are. Since, as already mentioned above, many additional parts have been cast already by the model in one piece, careful attention should also exacerbated the model builder. In some places, it is imperative to move at least with a sharp blade to get rid of the unsightly ridge. All in all, I've used about half an hour on the finishing of the model. At the rear of the tower might be a little filler to be applied. Otherwise, there also does a later draped Plane ... In order to free
the drives of their excess resin, these parts of coarsely cut from their excess "carrier frame" and then Sandpapier plangeschliffen werden. Auf diese Weise lassen sich nach kurzer Zeit auch die Zwischenräume der einzelnen Stütz- und Rollenwagen herauslösen. Auch hier sollte sodann mit Feile und Messer weiter gesäubert werden. Gegenüber den Modellen von Heiser sehen diese Laufwerke etwas besser aus. Die Zähne auf der Innenseite der Kette scheinen mir etwas besser ausgeprägt und Rillen zwischen den einzelnen Gliedern deutlicher ausgearbeitet zu sein. Nun, das M32 TRV verfügt zudem über das s.g. T-48 -Laufwerk, das sich von dem Standardlaufwerk der Shermans insofern unterscheidet, weil es über trapezförmige »Krallen« auf den Außenseiten verfügt. Einziger Wermutstropfen ist hierbei vielleicht das Triebrad. Die im Kettenteil befindlichen Zähne des Treibrades von CMM sind wesentlich weniger detailliert, als die von Heiser. Doch das tut bei richtiger Bemalung und unter Umständen mit etwas mehr Schmutz und Staub an den entsprechenden Stellen dem Gesamteindruck keinen Abbruch.
Da ich das TRV mit aufgebautem Ausleger darstellen wollte, musste auch dieser entsprechend vorbereitet werden. Die Teile für diesen Kran sind ebenfalls aus Resin gefertigt und bedürfen größter Aufmerksamkeit beim Reinigen. Das Material ist sehr spröde und lässt sich von daher nur äußerst begrenzt hin und her biegen. Da ich es für sinnvoller hielt, dieses Bauteil nach Möglichkeit nur für ein Modell zu verwenden, das nicht mit aufgestelltem Kran gezeigt werden sollte, I placed a corresponding boom abruptly ago polystyrene tubes. The dimensions I could remove the original part. Another advantage was that I could fill the tubes with a correspondingly slim brass wire. This had the advantage on the one that receives the component or even a decent level of stability and flexibility. At the same time offered the possibility to turn at the bottom of the tubes protruding wire ends so that they fit into prepared holes in the images of the model. From Urkran was the triangular support device, that device on which the upper end of the wire ropes were installed, but applied to the model. It had only two small holes in the rear parts are drilled, in which the "steel cable" would find their places.
Speaking of steel wire ropes. For this I used twisted copper wire. In order to get these so straight as possible, I have a hook in my cordless screwdriver clamped and tied one end of the wire to it. The other end I held with pliers. Now I had to run only a few twists of the screwdriver can be to get a nice straight wire. Cut to length and provided with small hooks, they would later hold the arm tension. To fix the ropes on
M32 had to, even this Part of the tank will be prepared accordingly. Although all of the components, such as lights, guards, etc. already cast on that. So the tie-down rings on the front and rear. In the rear should get the ropes. However, since the Resind at this point far too thin and brittle, I removed the two eyes and they also replaced by those made according to cope bent copper wire. inserted into small holes with some superglue, these were the perfect bracket. Just the fact, that would be during trial assembly and disassembly of the boom, the initial drop rings aborted simply confirmed to me, replace them right from the outset by those from wire.
The painting took place prior to priming. Was used for this purpose Revell Bronze Green 65, on the later gray dust 77 and 87 was earth color (also Revell Aqua Color) dry brushed. The drive I treated in my tried and true method. First, the internal parts of the ground color of the model (ie Bronzegrün9 paint, then brush the chain parts matt black. Dry After drying, the chains of silver and iron and aging of the inner parts according to their own needs ". In my case, it should be dusty. I used for this purpose Revell Beige Beige 89 and 314, also a bit of Yellow Desert Citadel was. Then on the entire model, especially on the drive but again, more dust mimics with pastels.
The diorama should get to the base of an old picture frame. The two models were just large enough to be still some room for other things in the landscape. Since I'm such a wreck that could be perhaps somewhere on the Pacific coast, it should definitely be lighter sand. My wife got me a bag of the sand bird, with which I could probably make fifty of these dioramas (Thank you my darling!)
Using Mosi-foam from the florist, I built up the bottom of the frame a gently undulating Landscape, in the first of the wreck was embedded. To this a little sagged to a way I stuck under the engine cover a piece of plastic pipe. So I could tilt it and fix the desired angle. The Mosi-foam can be bonded beautifully with wood glue. Even when this is cured, the material can still "conduct with a finger in the desired shape." One should only watch that one has no glue residue as possible to your fingers. Otherwise, leave this one green adhesive substance that is very persistent in the cleaning ...
After the dunes decorated the beach and the wreck was embedded in it, I rubbed it all with a another layer of wood glue. A little caution is necessary in the wreck. Glue should get to places where no sand is later attached, it must first be scraped off well again. I have this also uses the finger. Was all wet with glue, the surface area and its frame was placed in a box and sprinkle generously with bird sand. This press a bit quiet on the basis of the frame, then simply shook off the rest for now and let it dry. The glue is still wet can be, including sand, but also a little with your fingers or make an appropriate tool in the form. After curing, I have painted everything on a layer of diluted white paint (AC Revell 05), because in some places the Mosi greenish shine through. I should have guessed something like that also, the wood glue, glue binding usually from very transparent. So the relevant services to white-washed, allowed to dry and re-applied a thin layer of glue. All in all, I have repeated this process with sand and glue 3 times until I had promised the final result.
Now we come to another embodiment of the base. Beach was all well and good. But so completely devoid of vegetation I liked this foundation did not want. Beach grass, it should, or at least any undergrowth that a slight usury came loose points distributed equally. But where should I to this material to a Saturday afternoon hernehmen? Well, the long and short of nonsense, I decided to to test a few bristles from the doormat u8nserer porch (really, my dear, it was only these few bristles!). Said and done and seen the stuff on the desk for now. With fingers and two tweezers, and Ponal Express the stuff was then individually - really bristle bristle - transplanted. After more than two hours of work and like I was ready, I would try me now, even at an open heart!
Now that the wreck had already found its place and also sand, scrub, etc., were secured, which was ready-made model of the M32 TRV can be integrated. After a few tries, but the very hard surface of the experiments to be matched to the chassis of the M32, this was fixed with gum Fixo of marabou on the ground. This glue is dry after a cloudy film that can be removed from almost any surface with pleasure again. For purposes of Dioramas ideal if you want to see even a model for the repair of the environment.
Now that even some "junk" had been built with - note the blade, the box, and the overlying wrench, oh yes, do not forget the steel cable, embed, I wanted to do like a little life. The scenery was not exactly the impression that what was going on, we saw einmal von den beiden Protagonisten aus Stahl ab. Da ja die Szene irgendwo an der Pazifikküste angesiedelt sein sollte, warum also nicht einen entsprechenden Einheimischen mit in die Szene einbinden? Nach ein paar Recherchen im Web, dem zurechtlegen von Fimo-Modelliermasse, Kupferdraht und Resinresten war nach knappen drei Stunden ein ansehnlicher Pelikan entstanden, der mit gespreizten Schwingen und geöffnetem Schnabel sein rostiges Domizil versucht zu verteidigen – oder seine Strandtoilette, je nach dem, wie man es betrachten möchte.
Fazit: Als Erstlingswerk finde sicherlich keine ganz schlechte Erfahrung im Bereich Landschaftsgestaltung im Modellbau. Auch wenn mir heute jede Menge Dinge auffallen, die ich might have done differently or better. The construction of the two models, especially that of the M32, have prepared me back very much fun and joy. Otherwise I almost exclusively only build tanks and armored vehicles of the Wehrmacht, the two shear Mans me were very nice. I would like to stress that the TRV should be just a bit more experience in dealing with resin models and their handling may be present. Especially in such a delicate scale, such as in 1 / 87 of this kit is absolutely not suitable for beginners!
Norman Bushman 2010
Before Sherman had now been put in but the lamentable state in which he should be on the diorama, he also had a corresponding damage suffered. A ragged hole in the right upper curvature was introduced from the inside by means of a folded-nose pliers. Although the peak, but still provided at its end flat beak of the forceps according to the irregular jagged extremes. Since the edge of the forceps is not round, but also more edgy is, I made these not great, because the damage should be properly frayed by the very fact of the corrosion caused by decades.
As the tanks, respectively, its crew, saw the coming danger but they face was tilted tower in the appropriate direction. Sorry a little late, so that the projectile caught the enemy tank in the interior of our Sherman and caused a devastating destruction. The explosion of propellants and ammunition, the tower was even a bit lifted from its base, which now made him sit on a slight angle of the tub. I achieved this effect, in which I removed the cones located in the tower and for a piece of poly pipe of the same diameter inclined rear glued to the tower roof. Thus prepared, the tower was later, after painting, are attached to the tub shell. What followed was the attempt to make complete wreck eaten away by rust and age object. The only question was how I made it.
Okay, many of my models have slight corrosion. How I built this, I was sure. I proved them together a small repertoire of tools and colors I here would like to point out the purpose of illustrating in detail:
Dark Brown 045 (Marabu Decormatt)
Rost 83 (Revell Aqua Color)
Brown 85 (Revell AQ)
Dark Flesh (Citadel Color)
Bestial Brown (Citadel Color)
Flesh Wash (Citadel) *
Brown Ink (Citadel) *
Badab Black (Citadel) *
The comparison of different fine brush (con 0 / 5 to 3), cotton swabs and paper napkins used the color not only to apply and distribute them, but also to achieve a correspondingly irregular surface structure.
For those with an "*" marked items is called Ink, very low viscosity inks (known in English as ink = ink), which is always dry transparent. Even if they are plotting thick, shining through the basic order of color, especially with what this project is very beneficial was. It must be said, however, that up to the other two Badab Black Ink's dry slightly glossy. There are now but the so-called Citadel Citadel washes, a series of Ink's (Badab Black was born in this series), the flash off dull and not shining in the end.
The painting of the tank and the tower began just as cih preparing all models after they are cleaned, with a layer of primer. Once this had dried properly, I overlaid the two parts with a dark layer of dark brown 045 from marabou to provide a solid base for the layered structure of rust. It was me but rather, it shines in the end may A dark brown spot on some corners and edges of the grid as a gray. With fine brush strokes, so I carried on like this chocolate bar, which I smoothed with a little more water in the brush here and there a little. Again, this order had to dry thoroughly before work could begin working on the actual rust.
used to apply the other colors I am a cheap bristle brush, I gently dipped in rust Revell's 83, just a little dash on a napkin and then dabbed on the tub. Always nice here and here and there also something else. I sent this order to dry a little and then began aufzutupfen the same way Dark Flesh and Brown 85th As well, this was accomplished, again came Bestial Brown zum Einsatz. Zwischendurch wurde noch ein wenig nach eigenem Geschmack mit Braun 85 aufgelockert, bis die komplette Fläche der Oberwanne und des Turmes, einschließlich der Winkelspiegel der Kommandantenkuppel, mit einer lockeren Textur der ausgewählten Brauntöne bedeckt war. Diese Farben ließ ich dann eine Nacht durchtrocknen, alleine schon um für das weitere Vorgehen ausgeruhte und frische Augen zu haben ...
Unter Zuhilfenahme der Ink´s akzentuierte ich zunächst die Rillen und Vertiefungen am Heck. Hierzu wurde erst ein wenig Brown Ink hinein laufen gelassen und im Anschluß das Badab Black drüber gezogen. So verstärkt sich mit wenigen Pinselstrichen der plastische Eindruck von Tiefe. Das Badab Black hingegen verhilft dabei, das das Brwon Ink nicht glänzt.
Letztendlich liegt es im Auge des Bastlers und an dessen Geschmack, wie er weiter verfährt. Ich habe mit einem gestutzten Haarpinsel der Größe 3 und dem Citadel Large Drybrush hier und dort ein wenig Ink aufgetupft und mit einem Wattestäbchen (oder auch dem bloßen Finger) diese verwischt. Lockere Striche und Tupfen, die anschließend ein wenig verwischt wurden brachten nach einigen Minuten bereits das gewünschte Resultat und ließen so den Eindruck entstehen, das ein paar Flächen stärker vom Rost befallen sind, als andere. Schlußendlich habe ich an ein paar markanten Stellen noch etwas Eisen 91 und Mithril Silver (Citadel) trockengebürstet. Wind und Sand sollten im Course of time so a few posts have bare ground naturally.
The M32 TRV of CMM was released from his bag and trimmed with a scalpel and file. As mentioned already some models from Sennheiser, appear in the maize forms gradually in the years to come. Although most runners are at the bottom of the tub, where they disturb not even later on to complete assembly and painting. But it seems a few gaps, possibly where the form of upper and lower sections are superimposed, predestined to be let through liquid resin. A few fish skins, it quickly removed and sanded are. Since, as already mentioned above, many additional parts have been cast already by the model in one piece, careful attention should also exacerbated the model builder. In some places, it is imperative to move at least with a sharp blade to get rid of the unsightly ridge. All in all, I've used about half an hour on the finishing of the model. At the rear of the tower might be a little filler to be applied. Otherwise, there also does a later draped Plane ... In order to free
the drives of their excess resin, these parts of coarsely cut from their excess "carrier frame" and then Sandpapier plangeschliffen werden. Auf diese Weise lassen sich nach kurzer Zeit auch die Zwischenräume der einzelnen Stütz- und Rollenwagen herauslösen. Auch hier sollte sodann mit Feile und Messer weiter gesäubert werden. Gegenüber den Modellen von Heiser sehen diese Laufwerke etwas besser aus. Die Zähne auf der Innenseite der Kette scheinen mir etwas besser ausgeprägt und Rillen zwischen den einzelnen Gliedern deutlicher ausgearbeitet zu sein. Nun, das M32 TRV verfügt zudem über das s.g. T-48 -Laufwerk, das sich von dem Standardlaufwerk der Shermans insofern unterscheidet, weil es über trapezförmige »Krallen« auf den Außenseiten verfügt. Einziger Wermutstropfen ist hierbei vielleicht das Triebrad. Die im Kettenteil befindlichen Zähne des Treibrades von CMM sind wesentlich weniger detailliert, als die von Heiser. Doch das tut bei richtiger Bemalung und unter Umständen mit etwas mehr Schmutz und Staub an den entsprechenden Stellen dem Gesamteindruck keinen Abbruch.
Da ich das TRV mit aufgebautem Ausleger darstellen wollte, musste auch dieser entsprechend vorbereitet werden. Die Teile für diesen Kran sind ebenfalls aus Resin gefertigt und bedürfen größter Aufmerksamkeit beim Reinigen. Das Material ist sehr spröde und lässt sich von daher nur äußerst begrenzt hin und her biegen. Da ich es für sinnvoller hielt, dieses Bauteil nach Möglichkeit nur für ein Modell zu verwenden, das nicht mit aufgestelltem Kran gezeigt werden sollte, I placed a corresponding boom abruptly ago polystyrene tubes. The dimensions I could remove the original part. Another advantage was that I could fill the tubes with a correspondingly slim brass wire. This had the advantage on the one that receives the component or even a decent level of stability and flexibility. At the same time offered the possibility to turn at the bottom of the tubes protruding wire ends so that they fit into prepared holes in the images of the model. From Urkran was the triangular support device, that device on which the upper end of the wire ropes were installed, but applied to the model. It had only two small holes in the rear parts are drilled, in which the "steel cable" would find their places.
Speaking of steel wire ropes. For this I used twisted copper wire. In order to get these so straight as possible, I have a hook in my cordless screwdriver clamped and tied one end of the wire to it. The other end I held with pliers. Now I had to run only a few twists of the screwdriver can be to get a nice straight wire. Cut to length and provided with small hooks, they would later hold the arm tension. To fix the ropes on
M32 had to, even this Part of the tank will be prepared accordingly. Although all of the components, such as lights, guards, etc. already cast on that. So the tie-down rings on the front and rear. In the rear should get the ropes. However, since the Resind at this point far too thin and brittle, I removed the two eyes and they also replaced by those made according to cope bent copper wire. inserted into small holes with some superglue, these were the perfect bracket. Just the fact, that would be during trial assembly and disassembly of the boom, the initial drop rings aborted simply confirmed to me, replace them right from the outset by those from wire.
The painting took place prior to priming. Was used for this purpose Revell Bronze Green 65, on the later gray dust 77 and 87 was earth color (also Revell Aqua Color) dry brushed. The drive I treated in my tried and true method. First, the internal parts of the ground color of the model (ie Bronzegrün9 paint, then brush the chain parts matt black. Dry After drying, the chains of silver and iron and aging of the inner parts according to their own needs ". In my case, it should be dusty. I used for this purpose Revell Beige Beige 89 and 314, also a bit of Yellow Desert Citadel was. Then on the entire model, especially on the drive but again, more dust mimics with pastels.
The diorama should get to the base of an old picture frame. The two models were just large enough to be still some room for other things in the landscape. Since I'm such a wreck that could be perhaps somewhere on the Pacific coast, it should definitely be lighter sand. My wife got me a bag of the sand bird, with which I could probably make fifty of these dioramas (Thank you my darling!)
Using Mosi-foam from the florist, I built up the bottom of the frame a gently undulating Landscape, in the first of the wreck was embedded. To this a little sagged to a way I stuck under the engine cover a piece of plastic pipe. So I could tilt it and fix the desired angle. The Mosi-foam can be bonded beautifully with wood glue. Even when this is cured, the material can still "conduct with a finger in the desired shape." One should only watch that one has no glue residue as possible to your fingers. Otherwise, leave this one green adhesive substance that is very persistent in the cleaning ...
After the dunes decorated the beach and the wreck was embedded in it, I rubbed it all with a another layer of wood glue. A little caution is necessary in the wreck. Glue should get to places where no sand is later attached, it must first be scraped off well again. I have this also uses the finger. Was all wet with glue, the surface area and its frame was placed in a box and sprinkle generously with bird sand. This press a bit quiet on the basis of the frame, then simply shook off the rest for now and let it dry. The glue is still wet can be, including sand, but also a little with your fingers or make an appropriate tool in the form. After curing, I have painted everything on a layer of diluted white paint (AC Revell 05), because in some places the Mosi greenish shine through. I should have guessed something like that also, the wood glue, glue binding usually from very transparent. So the relevant services to white-washed, allowed to dry and re-applied a thin layer of glue. All in all, I have repeated this process with sand and glue 3 times until I had promised the final result.
Now we come to another embodiment of the base. Beach was all well and good. But so completely devoid of vegetation I liked this foundation did not want. Beach grass, it should, or at least any undergrowth that a slight usury came loose points distributed equally. But where should I to this material to a Saturday afternoon hernehmen? Well, the long and short of nonsense, I decided to to test a few bristles from the doormat u8nserer porch (really, my dear, it was only these few bristles!). Said and done and seen the stuff on the desk for now. With fingers and two tweezers, and Ponal Express the stuff was then individually - really bristle bristle - transplanted. After more than two hours of work and like I was ready, I would try me now, even at an open heart!
Now that the wreck had already found its place and also sand, scrub, etc., were secured, which was ready-made model of the M32 TRV can be integrated. After a few tries, but the very hard surface of the experiments to be matched to the chassis of the M32, this was fixed with gum Fixo of marabou on the ground. This glue is dry after a cloudy film that can be removed from almost any surface with pleasure again. For purposes of Dioramas ideal if you want to see even a model for the repair of the environment.
Now that even some "junk" had been built with - note the blade, the box, and the overlying wrench, oh yes, do not forget the steel cable, embed, I wanted to do like a little life. The scenery was not exactly the impression that what was going on, we saw einmal von den beiden Protagonisten aus Stahl ab. Da ja die Szene irgendwo an der Pazifikküste angesiedelt sein sollte, warum also nicht einen entsprechenden Einheimischen mit in die Szene einbinden? Nach ein paar Recherchen im Web, dem zurechtlegen von Fimo-Modelliermasse, Kupferdraht und Resinresten war nach knappen drei Stunden ein ansehnlicher Pelikan entstanden, der mit gespreizten Schwingen und geöffnetem Schnabel sein rostiges Domizil versucht zu verteidigen – oder seine Strandtoilette, je nach dem, wie man es betrachten möchte.
Fazit: Als Erstlingswerk finde sicherlich keine ganz schlechte Erfahrung im Bereich Landschaftsgestaltung im Modellbau. Auch wenn mir heute jede Menge Dinge auffallen, die ich might have done differently or better. The construction of the two models, especially that of the M32, have prepared me back very much fun and joy. Otherwise I almost exclusively only build tanks and armored vehicles of the Wehrmacht, the two shear Mans me were very nice. I would like to stress that the TRV should be just a bit more experience in dealing with resin models and their handling may be present. Especially in such a delicate scale, such as in 1 / 87 of this kit is absolutely not suitable for beginners!
Norman Bushman 2010
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